Pertois-Lebrun: The Elegance of Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs

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Feb 2025

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The Domaine Pertois-Lebrun is located in Cramant, one of Champagne’s 17 Grand Cru villages, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. The landscape is marked by rolling hills adorned with vineyards stretching along slopes of varying exposure, creating a truly scenic panorama. The combination of silty-limestone soil, an underlying layer of exposed chalk, and a unique microclimate—protected to the north by the Butte de Saran—allows Chardonnay, the emblematic grape of the region, to express itself as a sensory whirlwind of elegance, freshness, acidity, fruit, citrus, salinity, and minerality, delivering an unparalleled tasting experience.

Craie

From the first clusters to the present day
It’s the story of generations of winemakers in the Côte des Blancs, which began in the early 20th century. But Champagne Pertois-Lebrun was officially founded in 1955 by grandparents Paul Pertois, a grower in Cramant, and Françoise Lebrun, a winegrower in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Later, their daughter Odile took over the estate while waiting for her nephews, Clément and Antoine, to return from Provence—destined to represent the fifth generation. Today, Clément manages the vineyards and winemaking, while Antoine oversees the commercial side. They cultivate 9.69 hectares of Chardonnay in five Grand Cru villages—Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Oger, and Oiry—and two Premier Crus, Cuis and Villeneuve, spread across 44 individual plots. Their mission is to highlight the elegance and refinement of Chardonnay by intervening as little as possible and showcasing the unique identity of each terroir through their cuvées.

Here, among intricate roots and invisible synergies, the magic of eco-responsible viticulture begins.
Springs of rebirth, summers of abundance, autumns of harvest, and winters of rest—respecting nature’s cycles means living in harmony, for everything has its time, and patience is a precious virtue. Their approach is a perfect example of how to work in sync with the environment, following its rhythms, valuing each stage of the process, and practicing eco-responsible viticulture. This includes promoting biodiversity, reducing yields, favoring organic treatments and aromatherapy, and eliminating the use of insecticides and herbicides. They till the soil mechanically and encourage the growth of natural grass cover. In this well-orchestrated ecosystem, root systems penetrate deeper into the subsoil to extract its essence, enabling the wines to express the full aromatic range and true minerality of their terroirs.
In 2019, their vineyard was certified HVE (High Environmental Value) and VDC (Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne). In 2023, they obtained Organic Farming certification from Ecocert, and some plots are now farmed following biodynamic principles. Only first pressings are used, and fermentations are carried out separately for each plot using stainless steel, vitrified concrete tanks, used Burgundian oak barrels, foudres, and Italian stoneware amphorae. The wines are aged for around 10 months on fine lees, with natural clarification, no fining, and no filtration. After bottling, the cuvées rest on lees in the cellar—an essential stage where the Champagne finds its harmony, reveals its essence, and enchants the palate.

Tasting 

L’Extravertie
The “calling card of the house,” this is the first blend to include both owned Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards, unlike previous versions which were composed exclusively of Grand Cru villages.

  • 100% Chardonnay
  • Base 2020 – 14% reserve wines from 2018 and 2019
  • Grand Crus: Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oiry, Cramant, Oger
  • Premier Crus: Cuis, Villeneuve
  • Vinification: only first pressings, 10 months on fine lees. Fermented in stainless steel and oak barrels, naturally clarified, with no fining or filtration. Malolactic fermentation completed.
  • Tirage: July 2021
  • Aging: 31 months on lees
  • Disgorgement: February 2024
  • Dosage: 3 g/l
On the nose, green apple, citrus notes of lemon, delicate white flowers, dried fruit, almond biscuits, accompanied by a subtle hint of yeast and spicy aromas. On the palate, it is fresh and smooth. Delicate effervescence. The flavors reflect the aromas, with a citrus-forward profile enriched by hints of liquorice. Long, savory, and mineral finish.

L’Ambitieuse
Previously made using only two Grand Crus: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Chouilly.

  • 100% Chardonnay
  • Base 2018 – 50% Perpetual Reserve from 2013 to 2017
  • Grand Cru: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (mid-slope)
  • Perpetual Reserve: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Oiry, Cramant
  • Vinification: only first pressings, 10 months on fine lees. Fermented in stainless steel and oak barrels, naturally clarified, no fining or filtration. Malolactic fermentation completed.
  • Tirage: July 2019
  • Aging: nearly 4 years on lees
  • Disgorgement: June 2023
  • Dosage: 2 g/l
Deep golden. On the nose, full and inviting, with citrus notes and aromas of ripe fruit mingled with delicate pastry nuances. On the palate, remarkable vertical structure typical of a Grand Cru. Enveloping, full texture. Fine effervescence. Bright acidity. Mineral and savory. Extra brut-style finish.

L’Égoïste
Vintage 2014

  • 100% Chardonnay
  • Grand Crus: Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
  • Vinification: only first pressings, 10 months on fine lees. Fermented in stainless steel (87%) and oak barrels (13%), naturally clarified, no fining or filtration. Malolactic fermentation completed.
  • Tirage: July 2015
  • Aging: almost 7 years on lees
  • Disgorgement: June 2022
  • Dosage: 2.5 g/l
  • Bottles produced: 2,072
A classic and balanced vintage. On the nose, yeast merges with notes of pastry cream, ripe fruit, a delicate hint of powder, and dried flowers. On the palate, it is consistent and well-defined. Fruity flavors are expressed with finesse, supported by subtle acidity. The mousse is creamy. The finish is long and persistent, with fresh citrusy notes of loquat. A pure expression of the evolution of a vintage Chardonnay over time.

Le Mont de Craie N°17
Vintage 2017

The name, combining “mont” (mountain) and “cra” (from craie, chalk), reflects the geological nature of the soil, rich in outcropping chalk that contributes to the distinctive character of these Champagnes, and also references Cramant itself “mont” for mountain, and “cra” for chalk.

  • 100% Chardonnay
  • 4 plots from the Grand Cru village of Cramant, located in the lieux-dits: Moyens du Levant (plateau), Les Champs du Soleil (village heart), La Fontaine des Crochets (east-facing slope), and Les Hautes Bauves (north-facing slope)
  • Old vines over 40 years old
  • Soil: silty-limestone with Campanian chalk subsoil
  • Vinification: only first pressings, 10 months on fine lees. Fermentation in stainless steel, naturally clarified, no fining or filtration. Malolactic fermentation completed
  • Tirage: July 2018
  • Aging: nearly 6 years on lees
  • Disgorgement: February 2024
  • Dosage: 1 g/l
  • Bottles produced: 1,390
On the nose, an elegant bouquet of fruit and citrus, white flowers, and vanilla notes. On the palate, it opens with an enveloping and silky mid-palate sensation. Lively effervescence. Well balanced, it offers a pleasant complexity. On the finish, a light bitter and mineral note blends harmoniously with a hint of balsamic character, leaving a fine and persistent aftertaste.

Derrière le Mont Aigu N°13
Vintage 2013

  • 100% Chardonnay
  • Grand Cru: Chouilly
  • Lieu-dit: Derrière le Mont Aigu
  • 0.59 hectares
  • Old vines planted by the grandfather in 1955, just 500 meters from the lieu-dit Le Fond du Bateau
  • South-facing exposure
  • Soil: silty with Campanian chalk subsoil
  • First plot managed entirely under organic viticulture since 2013
  • Vinification: only first pressings, 10 months on fine lees. Fermentation in stainless steel (77%) and oak barrels (23%), naturally clarified, no fining or filtration. Malolactic fermentation completed
  • Tirage: July 2014
  • Aging: nearly 9 years on lees
  • Disgorgement: June 2023
  • Dosage: 2 g/l
  • Bottles produced: 2,101
A cool vintage. On the nose, citrus notes of mandarin, floral touches, almond, and delicate spices, enriched by pleasant pastry aromas. On the palate, it is vertical, enveloping, and well balanced. The structure is elegant, with a soft mousse. The finish is long, marked by a saline minerality that leaves a clean and refreshing sensation.

Le Fond du Bateau N°13
Vintage 2013

The first in the “Les Fidèles” line, this cuvée reveals the authenticity of the terroir through the complexity of its refined aromas.

  • 100% Chardonnay
  • Grand Cru: Chouilly
  • Lieu-dit: Le Fond du Bateau
  • 1.44 hectares
  • Old vines planted by the grandfather in 1955
  • East-facing exposure
  • Soil: clay-limestone with Senonian chalk subsoil
  • Vinification: only first pressings, 10 months on fine lees. Fermentation in concrete vats (53%) and oak barrels (47%), naturally clarified, no fining or filtration. Malolactic fermentation completed
  • Tirage: July 2014
  • Aging: nearly 9 years on lees
  • Disgorgement: June 2023
  • Dosage: 2 g/l
  • Bottles produced: 2,186
On the nose, cedar and citrus accompanied by vanilla and exotic notes add richness and complexity. On the palate, it reveals a great sensation of freshness, precision, and linearity. Creamy effervescence. The well-present acidity provides a pleasant gustatory tension. The finish is mineral, chalky, and intense, with hints of liquorice blended with a delightful savory character. A sublime Champagne that tells the essence of its terroir.

Foto Tasting Pertois-Lebrun.jpg 534.23 KB

🔗 Discover more about Pertois-Lebrun and their Côte des Blancs Champagnes at:
🌐 www.champagne-pertoislebrun.com

Tags: Champagne Pertois-Lebrun, Côte des Blancs, Craie

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